Pond Winterize

GENERAL RECOMMENDATIONS

*Pump Maintenance

*Pond Nets

*Waterfalls

*Fish Care

*Plant care

* Pump Maintenance
You will want to remove the pump from the pond and disconnect it from the tubing, allowing water to drain completely from the pump and tubing.

Using a garden hose nozzel, lift the tubing and spray enough water through to clear the waterfall (or fountain) line, and drop it back into the pond. Then clean your pump by squirting water through the pump to free it of debris and algae and finish by scrubbing the exterior casing.

When clean and completely dry, coat the pump with any light lubricant (such as WD40) and place the pump in a sealed plastic bag for storage. You may store your pump outside near your pond (many cords are not moveable); it is not necessary to store it indoors.

The point is to avoid any water freezing in the small recesses of the pump, the tubing or connecting parts. Most damage to pumps, tubing and waterfall construction occurs is a result of freezing water.

* Pond Nets
To keep leaves and debris from blowing into your pond during the fall and winter months, cover the entire water surface with a pond net, and secure the net with bricks or spikes around the edge. Even simple net, as those used for bird protection, can be purchased at many local stores.

* Winter Waterfalls
You should use caution in running waterfalls in the winter, even if you use a deicer or heater in the pond. I recommend that you don't run your waterfalls in the winter. Water freezing in the rocks above the water line may loosen mortar or caulk used in waterfall construction, eventually causing leaking to occur.

* Plant Care
Hearty lilies and perennial bog plants should be cut down to the soil line, and their pots lowered to the pond floor well below the freezing level.

Many bog plants and tropical lilies are considered annuals and, therefore, are usually discarded after the season. However, they may be saved if brought indoors, stored properly and kept in a cool, damp place.

Potted submergible plants, such as anacharis or cabomba, can remain in your pond throughout the winter without any preparation. They will continue to provide a source of food and shelter for your fish. You should cut these back in the Spring.

* Fish Care
As the water temperature in your pond continues to drop, your fish will become less active and stop feeding. When the daily temperature averages 45-50 degrees, discontinue feeding your fish - if the food is not being consumed by your fish, it will add to the contamination of your pond water.

As long as your pond is at least 18 inches deep (ask your local pond suppliers for freeze level info if far north), your fish will not be in danger of freezing, even though the pond surface is covered with ice*. However, breaking holes in the ice periodically is recommended to release any unhealthy gases that may be generated from organic matter and decaying plants. A stick or disc heater can also be used to keep an opening in the ice.
BUT - If you have exotic or expensive fish, you should ask a specialist for further recommendations of insuring the health of your fish over the winter.

The earlier you cover your pond with the pond net in the fall, the cleaner and healthier your pond water will be during the winter, ensuring the good health of your fish.

*Note on Concrete Ponds
Ponds constructed of concrete, especially those above ground, should not be allowed to freeze. Pressure caused by the expansion of ice, may cause the concrete foundation to crack. Ponds deep enough to winter fish (at least 18-24") should be OK if a few inches on top freezes.
In shallow pools, the use of a heating element is recommended to keep the water from solid freezing.

Never empty your pond for the winter (or any length of time)!

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