maintenance1

Regular Maintenance

Ponds require maintenance just as your form of transportation does. If maintenance is done regularly and correctly you should be able to enjoy your pond for many years.

First of all you want to get as much info as you can on any equipment you buy or have installed. Read product brochures in packages, and keep them handy. And ask the vendor if you will be able to buy replacement parts, such as sterilizer bulbs, pump pieces or filter pads before purchasing.

* Rinse your pump, filters and UV sterilizers regularly. (Learn to disassemble and clean before installing- much easier to learn dry!) Remove from the pond, clean with forced hose water or follow instructions with UV equipment. If you have a waterfall, fountain basin or water-feature, clean it. Scrub off rocks, pump intakes, skimmer boxes, pump sprayers and bubblers, and keep clear of debris. Also, regularly detach your pump and spray tubing clean of accumulated debris. Buy a simple, strong hose nozzle and never use cleaning products in the pond.

* Drain the large debris from your biofilter bottom regularly or backwash tanks - follow instructions given by the manufacturer (there are different types of filters and care instructions!). Don't disturb the bacterial centers, and reintroduce bacteria when needed.

* If algae is overwhelming, freshen the water. If it's mid season or cleaning isn't possible, empty some of the pond, slowly add dechlorinator (for fish ponds - read the bottle for use) and gradually fill the pond up with fresh water. Take care with fish during warm weather to balance water temperature slowly. Ask local professionals if stress reducing chemistry (ex: pond salt) is recommended- sometimes it is needed.

* The best way of reducing string algae is manual removal - take it off all plants, rocks and liners. Pull it out by hand and clean any rigid surfaces with a stiff brush, including plant pots and waterfall stones and coping edges.

* Prune and discard all spent blossoms and dead matter from the plants. Pot your plants in large, closed-bottom containers and eliminate pot clutter by planting multiple plants in larger containers.

* Remove debris from the water and pond floor with your fish net or skimmer. A strainer works in shallow depths.

* Don't use water "clarifiers" or "algae busters" unless you have a means to clear the debris out after the algae has died and dropped in the pond.
A floor pump to a large biofilter, a pond vac or shop vac is needed to clean up the result of these additives. (The water should be churned up to facilitate the cleaning of debris). And, the latest research indicates that this by-product can actually feed a new algae bloom, creating a persistent cycle.
If you can't keep a maintenance schedule, try a water dye such as "Deep Water" or "Algae Blocker", which turns the water dark blue/purple/green and inhibits algae growth. This has been used for years in formal lily ponds.

* Observe your pond. Not fearfully- but observe what goes on with the plants, fish, the water flow, the weather, etc. and what is happening outside the pond. You will learn to notice small changes and react before the larger problems occur.
For some examples: Fish have habits. Acquaint yourself with the fish in the pond and notice their (healthy) behavior. This will help you see a water quality issue or a disease symptom before bad things happen because fish change behavior or appearance as they become ill.

* If you are loosing water, the way you find the source is to fill the pond to normal level and shut off all water pumps for one day. If the pond still looses water, the leak is in the pond liner; if not, the leak is in the tubing, connectors, filters or waterfalls.